Habana Daydreaming…
By Capt. Craig Eubank
So, I’m sitting on my couch watching the X-Games wondering if I’m too old to start a new career, when the phone rings. I’m expecting a call from a client that hopefully has decided just exactly what day he wants to fish this April and has credit card in hand just itching to give me a deposit for the fishing trip of a lifetime. Well, that wasn’t the case with this call, but it certainly did stir some old memories. “I hear you are the one to talk to if I need some ideas of how to go visit Cuba,” said the friendly voice on the other end of the line.
Now in the past, I would have been immediately suspicious of such phone calls, thinking it could be the U.S. State Department, U.S. Department of Foreign Affairs and Currency, the U.S. Immigration Service, U.S. Secret Service, U.S. Customs Authority, Homeland Security or even Mr. Cason from the U.S. Citizens’ Interest Section Office in downtown Habana. All of which have called me at various times in the past almost twenty years, to try and “set me up.” Now, I figure that whatever statute of limitations might have existed in the past has been reached and, truthfully, I assume this administration really doesn’t care about my past activities: my “Cuba runs.” I never broke the law… exactly. Besides, Mom, everybody else was doing it!
Apparently, this caller has a boat that he left in Cancun the past year, is now bringing it home and would like to stop by Cuba on his way. “Easy,” I said taking a big breath, “Leave Cancun and head for Key West. As you reach the Western tip of Cuba (Cabo San Antonio), follow the coast staying offshore of the island as to avoid the very shallow reef system that is not at all marked except for the grounded freighters. As you approach Marina Hemingway, about 13 miles before Habana, notice that one of your engines is not performing as it should. Perhaps it is over-heating and you certainly need to seek a full-service marina ASAP to have it checked out. Marina Hemingway can be reached on channel 72 and will be more than helpful in getting you in and checking your engine. They can certainly be reached on channel 16, but why bother everyone within earshot with your engine problems,” I said. “Are you following me so far?”
“Isaura is the Marina Manager, Commodore Escrich is more of a P.R. guy, and Jose is the head dockmaster. Empty your holding tank while you are at sea. Everyone on board your boat will need a current passport, SSN, and D.O.B. You will be instructed (in English no less!) where to dock while you are checked by – the doctor (don’t forget your Quarantine flag and Cuban courtesy flag), the Agriculture Agent (no fruits or veggies, besides, they just get “donated”) Immigration, Customs (Aduana) and lastly, the Dockmaster. Take care of the Dockmaster; he decides if you get to dock next to the pool where the bikinis gather or next to the dumpster. This is not the time to be cheap or a smuggler. Leave your satellite dishes at home. You will also need to check your guns. Be patient, friendly, and don’t get cute. They are patient and friendly, but can be “difficult” if provoked. If you have to sit for three hours while they have someone drive downtown because they forgot the official stamp for the visas, sit and wait.” I paused for a moment just to see if the person on the other end of the line was still there or had hung up before I got to the part about their engine over-heating, and to my surprise, he was still there and listening. “What do I do when I leave?” he asked. “Easy,” I said, “Leave early in the morning and head just east of north for Key West. The Gulf Stream will be in your favor and it will push you slightly to the east and toward home. The U.S. Coast Guard may or may not stop you once you clear the twelve-mile limit, but if they do, they will call you on channel 16. Inform them of your engine problem, which is now fixed and you are headed to Key West where you will immediately contact U.S. Customs and Immigration (I.C.E.). Tell them you had no problems while in Cuba and spent no money. You stayed onboard your boat. You ate your ship’s stores that were already aboard. The repairs were simple and you made them yourself. When you went out, you spent no money. The dockage was free. The fuel you took on was free. After all, it is illegal to spend money in Cuba,” I said. The Cuban Nation is very hospitable.
The caller thanked me and promised to touch base once he docked here Key West just to let me know how things had gone and what I had left out and what I should correct for future travelers. I hung up the phone and started to reminisce about fishing the Hemingway Tournament and the many trips back and forth across the Gulfstream. Some good and, as some of you know, some not so good. Anyway, if you are adventurous, the 61st Annual Hemingway Billfish Tournament is being held this June 6th through the 11th and is an IGFA recognized tournament. Four full days of fishing with one lay day. No money involved, but some really cool hand-carved trophies. And, of course, bragging rights of catching Billfish out front of El Morro Castle just like Hemingway did. Up until 1998, it was a kill tournament. Lots of things have changed since then except for the traveling part. I don’t travel there anymore myself since most of my Cuban family now live in Key West, but I do hope that eventually one of our administrations will stop lying to us and actually do something about the travel restrictions or perhaps even take on our embarrassing embargo. For now, I get my fill of Habana by watching my 7-year-old play baseball for the Moose lodge!
